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May is for goat

May is for goat AJ Linn In order to understand the rules that dominate the Gastronomic calendar, we need to understand the breeding cycles of the animals and birds involved. The Glorious Twelfth (of August) may be the best known as the opening of the grouse season, and closer to the Mediterranean we are all aware that sardines are best when there is no letter r in the month, like oysters. But I have still to work out why this is the time of year when chivito (baby goat) is at its best. Cochinillo (suckling pig) is eaten year round, and there is a restaurant in Benahavis that sells almost industrial quantities, but those who appreciate chivito have to be more patient. Although goat is apparently a great favourite of the West Indian community in Britain, normally stewed and of any age, cabrito is a favourite in Portugal, Italy and Greece, as well as Spain. Understand ›
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